We had to get back to the beach. Since our trip to Myrtle Beach, we've been dreaming about getting back to the coast - just a nicer coast. So we made last minute arrangements to spend our 11-year anniversary in Charleston and Isle of Palms. We had yet to visit this part of South Carolina and I'd been eager to see what magic it held for so many. I've always been enamored of the South; growing up in the Midwest and Southern California, my idea of what the South was - was very Steel Magnolia's and Anne Rice's Feast of All Saints. I've always dreamt of taking a long, dusty road trip through Dixie... dining on peaches from roadside stands and passing haunted plantations at dusk - Spanish moss brushing the top of our car as we sank deeper into the country. Charleston, being one of oldest cities in America, founded in 1670 is beautifully preserved and allowed me the luxury of living out this fantasy.
We started our trip in the historic area of the city staying just a few blocks away from King Street and all it offers. The heat was deliciously intense. The kind that just drains your life while simultaneously making you feel cleansed and whole. We refueled at Hope and Union - twice on this trip actually - and fell in love with not only the spare beauty of the space, but some of the best iced mocha in the universe. That Sunday, our anniversary, we were lucky enough to secure a table at Husk and enjoyed what is most definitely one of my favorite brunches ever. While the pulled pork croque monsieur topped with a perfectly fried egg was memorable to be sure - it was dessert - the most heavenly chocolate trifle served in a large jar, that I'm still dreaming about. It was creamy and crunchy and chocolaty and - oh god - it was SO good. I'm determined to recreate it - somehow.
That afternoon we drove out to the beach. We stayed on Isle of Palms at Wild Dunes upon recommendation of a girlfriend. For a last minute getaway, it was an ideal choice. It is a beautiful, clean and un-crowded beach and some of the best shelling we've found on the East Coast. The girls collected some fine specimens. We swam until the sand and salt water was deeply imbedded into every pore and we relished the afternoon rains as a welcome break for lunch and a quick check up on the Olympic games. The ocean is so sacred to me. Whenever I have the opportunity to cleanse my spirit in the crashing waves, I find that the fires in my heart are quelled - at least for a little while. It's my favorite place to meditate, to listen to my soul and to the wisdom of the Ocean. I think my girls feel this force as well.
We spent the last day exploring two other areas of Charleston. Having been recommended the tacos at Taco Boy in Folly Beach, we found it the perfect excuse to check out the area for a possible beach rental next summer. After we sat down on the patio of Taco Boy, sipping our beers and eating fresh guacamole, it occurred to me that I didn't feel like I was in the South anymore. Having spent so may summers in Pacific and Ocean Beach, I realized why I felt so comfortable in Folly. It has a distinctive SoCal vibe and I can't wait to get back next summer. And the tacos? An avocado tempura taco with slaw and a sweet Thai chili sauce rocked my world.
And I got my roadside meal of fresh peaches. A beautiful farm stand on Kiawah Island overflowed with baskets of peaches, tomatoes, greens, just jarred honey, eggs, fish, sweet grass baskets and a little gazebo of paintings. It was the perfect pit stop. Before leaving the area, I wanted the girls to see the Angel Oak - believed to be the oldest living tree East of the Mississippi, it is awe inspiring. I love where these experiences lead us – both physically and mentally as well as spiritually. The girls ask the most fascinating questions about what they experience and revel in the adventures – whispering among themselves like explorers who’ve just unlocked ancient secrets. Do you road trip? If not, I encourage you to pile everyone in the car – and just go. The road will always lead you to renewal.
More soon...
Sounds like a wonderful trip!! Your family is beautiful.
Posted by: Rose D., Frenchtown, NJ | August 2012 at 06:14 PM
That avocado tempura taco sounds divine. Your girls are precious and I love and miss the ocean.
Posted by: Giulia | August 2012 at 08:40 PM
If you go back next summer eat at Jestine's Kitchen. My favorite place in Charleston
Posted by: Shelby | August 2012 at 09:30 PM
The ocean does a truly amazing thing for my soul, too, I love how you put it-"quells the fires..." even if just for the moment and a few after.. I miss it and feel the pull of it's magic all the time. These photos are amazing, Jen! Such a keen eye for good light, and this film is perfect. I love the one of *one of your girls out-of-focus in the distance-just sublime. Wonderful! Thanks for taking the time to share this lovely post. :)
Posted by: Mia | August 2012 at 10:03 AM
love this post!! xoxo
Posted by: jen | August 2012 at 11:27 AM
rose and giulia - thank you so much!
shelby - we are heading back in january - just added to my list - thank you!
mia - thank you love - it feels so good to be giving that camera the attention it deserves again. xo
jen - thanks babe! can't wait to hear about maine! xo
Posted by: jen a | August 2012 at 11:59 AM
I love this! I've only been to Charleston once but it really does seem to win over everyone who visits. :)
Have you been to the Outer Banks in NC? If you're looking for a place to rent a house...Duck / Corolla are our family's favorites (less touristy than the southern Outer Banks). The houses are surrounded by dunes, you buy groceries for the week and it's just you and the water. (And there are cute villages, docks, places to bike, lighthouses...pretty magical).
Posted by: sally | August 2012 at 01:23 PM
Hi Sally,
We have! Every winter my family rents a house in Rodanthe - it's one of my favorite places in the world - I spent time as an infant there while my dad was the Commanding Officer of a small Navy Base in Hatteras. Have you tried the Hatteras Flats at Cafe 12? I made them here:
http://nectarandlight.typepad.com/nectar/2012/01/i-hope-you-had-a-beautiful-holiday-and-a-joyous-new-year-i-forgot-my-camera-card-reader-thus-no-posts-while-i-was-away-bu.html#comments
SO good! ;)
Cheers~Jen
Posted by: jen a | August 2012 at 03:33 PM
Oh, awesome! Sorry, guess I should have given your blog a quick search before assuming. ;) Just love obx so much that I spread the love. And that looks delicious!
Posted by: sally | August 2012 at 06:42 PM
These photos are just gorgeous Jen! Looks and sounds like you had a fantastic time. :)
Posted by: Ashley | August 2012 at 02:46 PM
Where are those adorable sandals from? The ones your precious girls are wearing. I'm sure my daughter would love them.
Posted by: Judy | August 2012 at 06:29 PM
thank you ashley - it was amazing.
judy - they are Salt Waters - we love them - they are leather, but waterproof - i even have a pair!
Posted by: jen a | August 2012 at 05:34 PM
http://naturallyella.com/
Posted by: Claudia Annie | August 2012 at 06:33 PM
If you ever want a peach you will literally dream about for the rest of your natural life, get yourself to Georgia in early July, go to a U-pick orchard, and gorge on dead-ripe white peaches right off the tree 'til you're sick. I make the 9-hour drive to Macon, GA from central NC as often as I can - just for the peaches. You have NEVER eaten a peach until you've eaten a true GA peach!!! And then you'll forever be tormented, longing for more!
Posted by: Beth | August 2012 at 05:32 PM
beth - as neither a georgian or a south carolinian i can not rightfully debate one over the over. that said - you've totally made me want to take a road trip to macon!! lol! it's now on my calendar for next july - thank you!
Posted by: jen a | August 2012 at 08:24 AM
Charleston is so special. We went to folly beach and I was in heaven. Glad you all had a good trip :)
Posted by: Debbie Ealer | September 2012 at 11:18 PM
I'm from California and living in NC. I just found your blog recently, but I love the way you describe your fantasy of the south (me too), the heat, the sea. You hit it on the nose.
Posted by: oami powers | September 2012 at 04:53 PM
Thank you for sharing your trip with us. It seems like you all had a really good time. I am thinking about moving to Charleston and want to gather as much information about the city as possible. I know it has a very historical background but I am searching for more details. Thanks!
Posted by: homes for sale in charleston sc | December 2012 at 03:46 PM